Violin Pig

A few months ago, my violin teacher asked if I could knit her something. Because I love pigs, she requested a palm-sized stuffed pig that she could use to teach students not to squeeze the neck of the instrument. I based this design largely off Apocalypse Knits' Chichester Pig but basically enlarged it. A lot.

Finished dimensions: 3 1/4 in. long by 2 1/8 in. high
Lion Brand Baby Soft pink
US size 1 dpns (set of 5)

Special instructions:
make ear:
k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 in one stitch
Knit 10 rows in stockinette.
Slip the 2nd stitch over the first, then the 3rd stitch over the first, etc. until only 1 stitch is left.
make leg 1:
(k1, p1, k1, p1) in one stitch two times (8)
Knit 12 rows in stockinette.
Slip stitches as in ear, leaving 2 sts.
make leg 2:
(k1, p1, k1, p1) in one stitch two times (8)
Knit 11 rows in stockinette.
Slip stitches as in ear, leaving 2 sts.
Turn, k2

Note: Stagger the increases to avoid a polygonal result.

Cast on four stitches using the easy circular cast-on; join in round.
kfb around (8)
kfb around (16)
k around
p around
k 3 more rounds
(kfb, k1) around (24)
k around
(kfb, k2) around (32)
k around
(kfb, k3, kfb, k4) around (39)
k around
(kfb, k4, kfb, k5) around (46)
k around
(kfb, k6, kfb, k7) around (52)
k1, make ear, k9, make ear, k to end of round
(kfb, k12) around (56)
k around
(kfb, k27) around (58)
k29, make leg 1, k10, make leg 2, k to end of round
kfb, k57 (59)
kfb, k58 (60)
k 9 rounds
From (kfb, k58), read up the pattern replacing kfb with ssk until you finish (ssk, k12) around (52 sts). Knit one round and start stuffing.
(ssk, k5 or 6) around (45)
k around
(ssk, k4 or 5) around (38)
k around
(ssk, k2 or 3) around (30)
k around
(ssk, k1 or 2) around (22)
k around
(ssk, k0 or 1) around (14)
k around and finish stuffing.
(ssk) around (7)
k3tog, k1, k3tog (3)
Insert wire if desired.
Knit I-cord (around wire, if applicable) until desired length.
Curl into tail shape (sew if necessary)
Break yarn; pull tail through remaining loops.
Weave in ends.
Embroider eyes and nostrils.

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Mobius Knitting

A Mobius strip is a ring of paper that has only one side and one edge. Don't believe me? Try it out:
1. Cut a strip of paper.
2. Twist one end 180 degrees.
3. Tape the two ends together.
4. Grab a pen and draw a line down the middle of your Mobius strip without picking up your pen.
Cool, isn't it?

I got a ball of fern Bernat Softee Chunky yarn for Christmas a couple of years ago, and I had no idea what to do with it. I decided to go for a one-skein project--a Mobius cowl. All you need for Mobius knitting is Cat Bordhi's Mobius cast-on and a little imagination. Mobius knitting is nice to wear because of that one built-in twist. The Internet has so many other Mobius possibilities.

Basically, you start from the middle of the Mobius strip and knit outwards with each round. Mobius knitting is possible because a Mobius strip has only one edge, and you go around and around it. While it's on your needles, the Mobius strip is folded in half, so your marker passes by underneath your needles once every round.

The confusing thing about Mobius knitting is that halfway through, when you get onto the other side of your cast-on middle, the right side and wrong side seem to flip. To knit a Mobius strip in stockinette, you'd actually have to knit half the round, then purl the other half. As a first-time Mobius knitter, I decided to stick with a garter stitch design--I knit the first round and purled the second. I cast on about ninety stitches and knit with US size #11 needles.

 

Since I was determined to use up all the yarn (and use it all I did), the cowl turned out quite large--perfect for bundling up when the winter comes!

A Note on the Despciable Me Minion

After extended research on the Internet, I have decided to name my first minion Carl based on hair, eye, and size. In the second movie, Carl is the minion who pretends he is a fire hydrant.

Carl is the first project I've designed. I've tweaked other patterns to fit my ends, but Carl was largely my own. I had great inspiration from All About Ami's crocheted minion.

The most helpful thing in this whole process was a book I got for Christmas from my sister, Knitting from the Center Out by Daniel Yuhas, which is a guide on circular knitting. The basic math of circular knitting was vital for me in designing Carl. His boots are based off the pattern "radmila's slippers." And of course, trial and error were large parts of Carl's design as well.

I plan to make a second minion with two eyes with which I plan to improve the first pattern. After that, I want to make smaller-sized minions. My obsession is not relenting :)

We recently went on a road trip and brought Carl along... here are some of my favorite shots.

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 5: Feet and Legs

Edit July 2015: I rewrote the pattern for the feet. The pattern remains the same, but the written pattern has been revised.

If you have yet to start a minion, see Part 1 to get started!

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Country Blue and Black

US size 7 circular needles

polyester fiber-fill

(make 2)

Boot:
CO 8 sts with Figure Eight Cast-on and black yarn. (16)
Knit 1 round (16)

Place half the stitches on the needle and *[(k1, p1, k1) in 1 st, knit to last st on needle, (k1, p1, k1) in 1 st] (24)

k1, pm (end Section 1), k2, pm (end Section 2), k6, pm (end Section 3), k1, pm (end Section 4), k2 (end Section 5); k2, pm (end Section 6), k1, pm (end Section 7), k6, pm (end Section 8), k2, pm (end Section 9), k1, pm (end Section 10)

Sections 1 and 2: Knit to last st in Section, kfb; Section 3: Knit; Sections 4 and 5: Knit to last st in Section, kfb; Sections 6 and 7: kfb, knit to end of section; Section 8: Knit; Sections 9 and 10: kfb, knit to end of section (32 sts)

Knit 1 round (32)
Repeat increase round (40)
Knit 5 rounds, removing markers and placing one at middle of round. Make sure decreases are centered on marker.
k18, ssk, k2tog, k18 (38)
K 1 round
k13, ssk 3 times, k2tog 3 times, k13 (32)
K 1 round
k8, ssk 4 times, k2tog 4 times, k8 (24)
K 1 round
k4, ssk4 times, k2tog 4 times, k4 (16)

Pant leg:
CO 18 sts with long-tail cast-on and blue yarn.
(RS) P 1 row
[p1, k1] into same stitch two times, p14, [p1, k1] into same stitch two times (22)
kfb two times, k18, kfb two times (26)
Loop CO 4 sts (Note: to prevent really loose stitches when you knit off these cast-on stitches, only cast on 3 stitches, then add the fourth on the next round after you've knit the three stitches.)
Join in round and place marker at the beginning of the round (30) 
Knit 2 rounds

Join the pant leg and the boot: 
Knit 1 blue stitch, then k2tog with one blue and one black. Repeat. (I lined up the four newly cast on stitches with the boot’s front four stitches and tried to spread the black stitches around the rest of the pant leg as evenly as possible.)

In the little diagram at the right, the bottom of the image is the front of the leg. Each dashed line on the circle represents a blue stitch, and circled stitches are knit together with a black stitch.

Knit 5 rounds, then...

Right foot:
K13, bind off 17
Bind off 3; break yarn, leaving enough to bind off the rest of the stitches and sew the leg later.
With a new strand, starting from where you left off, K9.
Turn.
Purl 6 stitches; break yarn
Return to the yarn that you broke earlier, and bind off the rest of the pant leg stitches.

Left foot:
Perform a short row wrap and turn: bring yarn to the front, slip 1 stitch off the left needle, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back onto left needle. Turn work.
P13, bind off 17 purl-wise. On the wrapped stitch, purl the wrap and the stitch together and bind off as usual. 
Bind off 3; break yarn, leaving enough to bind off the rest of the stitches and sew the leg later.
With a new strand, starting from where you left off, purl 9. 
Turn.
Knit 6; break yarn
Return to the yarn that you broke earlier, and bind off the rest of the pant leg stitches.

Weave in ends, stuff, and sew legs onto overalls (and through overalls to body, if desired)

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 4: Overalls

Revised July 2015

If you haven't started your minion yet, see Part 1 to get started!

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Country Blue and Bright Yellow (for detailing)

US size 7 circular needles

four black four-holed buttons, 3/8" in width
black felt

Follow instructions from Part 1 until Round 20 (84 stitches)

Knit two rounds (or until desired length).
p21, p1, k19, p1, p21, p1, k19, p1
Bind off 21 sts, p1, k19, p1, bind off 21 sts, p1, k19, p1
Turn. 

k1, p19, k1
k21
Repeat these two rows for about fifteen rows or until desired length.
Add one row of reverse stockinette (purl a RS row or knit a WS row)
Bind off.

Repeat the above section with the other set of 21 sts.

Separate yellow yarn into two sets with two plies each. Use this yarn to embroider the edges of the overalls.

Straps (make two):
CO 7 sts with long-tail cast on.
(WS) P 1 row
k2, make three-stitch buttonhole, k2
Continue in stockinette with a one-stitch garter edge until desired length.
Separate yellow yarn into two sets with two plies each. Use this yarn to embroider the edges of the straps.
Sew one button with blue yarn in a “+” shape onto each corner of the overalls; attach straps.

Pocket:

CO 12 sts with long-tail cast on.
Knit about 9 rows in stockinette.
(RS) ssk, k8, k2tog (10)
P
ssk, k6, k2tog (8)
p2tog, p4, p2tog tbl (6)
ssk, k2, k2tog (4)
Bind off all sts and weave in ends

Sew pocket onto overalls with two plies of yellow yarn; embroider top edge of pocket.

Cut Gru’s logo from black felt and glue it onto pocket. (Gru’s logo is basically a circle inside a square inside a circle with a black strip running from the inner to the outer circle through one of the square’s corners.)

When you're ready, move on to the last section Part 5, to add feet and legs!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 3: Eye

Edited July 2015 to be more detailed (hopefully) and explicit.

If you haven't yet started your minion, see Part 1 and Part 2 to get started!

Note about eye: I decided not to make my eye detachable because I believe that as non-organic beings, minions need their glasses to be functional. Hence, the eye is connected to the glasses.

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Black, Brown, White, and Heather Gray

US size 7 circular needles

polyester fiber-fill

First, decide whether your minion will have one or two eyes. For two eyes, I suggest you do a quick "Find" search for "Two Eyes."

ONE EYE:

CO 4 with Disappearing Loop Cast-on with black yarn; join in round. Switch to brown.
kfb all around (8)
(kfb, k1) (12)
Switch to white.
(kfb, k2) (16)
(kfb, k3) (20)
(kfb, k4) (24)
(kfb, k5) (28)
(kfb, k6) (32)
(kfb, k7) (36) If you want your minion to have an eyelid, follow the instructions below.
(kfb, k8) (40)
(kfb, k9) (44)
(kfb, k10) (48)
(kfb, k11) (52)
(kfb, k12) (56) Now continue with "Goggles"!

One Eyelid:

(kfb, k8) 3 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k5 (40)
kfb, k6, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k9) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k6 (44)
kfb, k7, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k10) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k7 (48)
kfb, k8, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k11) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k8 (52)
kfb, k9, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k12) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k9 (56)

One Goggle:

Special instructions—make bobble: kfb, turn, p2, turn, k2tog

Switch to gray.

Knit 3 rounds.
(make bobble, k6) around
Knit 1 rounds.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round
k11, pm, k6, pm, k22, pm, k6, pm, k11, break yarn
With a new strand, return to a set of six stitches separated by markers and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette. Break yarn.
With a new strand, return to the other set of six stitches and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette.
Bind off all 56 stitches continuously.
Break yarn, leaving enough to sew the eye onto the body later.




Return to the first gray round you knit and pick up 56 sts counter-clockwise (looking at the right side of the eye). 

Note that my working yarn is on the right in the photo.

Knit four rounds. The purl bumps should face out.
Bind off.
Weave in ends.









With black yarn, pick up seven stitches from bind-off edge of one of the sets of six stitches. 
Knit stockinette flat until the black can reach all around the body to the other set of six stitches. 

Pulling stitches onto the wrong side

Using a crochet hook, slip one black stitch off the needle and pull it through the bind-off edge to the wrong side of the goggle.

Note that the inside of the eye and the right side of the strap will be facing you. 

Binding off

Once all the stitches are on the crochet hook, slip them back onto a knitting needle.

Bind off the black stitches, leaving enough yarn to sew the strap on later. 

(This bind-off is only necessary if you wish to avoid sewing as much as possible, which is the case with me. If you don't mind sewing, just bind off the black and sew it onto the glasses.)


Stuff inside of eye, then sew the eye and black strap to minion’s head.

When you're done, move on to Part 4 to continue with overalls!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

TWO EYES:

Make two:

CO 4 with Disappearing Loop Cast-on with black yarn; join in round. Switch to brown.
kfb all around (8)
(kfb, k1) (12)
Switch to white.
(kfb, k2) (16)
(kfb, k3) (20)
(kfb, k4) (24)
(kfb, k5) (28)
(kfb, k6) (32) If you want your minion to have an eyelid, follow the instructions below.
(kfb, k7) (36) 
(kfb, k8) (40)
(kfb, k9) (44)
(kfb, k10) (48) Now continue with "Goggles"!

Two Eyelids:

(Edited 10/14/2015)
k3, switch to yellow, k4, kfb, k4, switch to white, k3, kfb, (k7, kfb) 2 times (36)
k2, switch to yellow, k4, kfb, k7, switch to white, k1, (kfb, k8) 2 times, kfb, k2 (40)k1, switch to yellow, k7, kfb, k7, switch to white, k2, (kfb, k9) 2 times, kfb, k1 (44)Switch to yellow, k10, kfb, k7, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k10) 2 times, kfb (48)

From here on, if something isn't clear, check the instructions for one eye to see if any of the photos help. If not, feel free to comment for clarifications!

Left-Eye Goggle:

Special instructions—make bobble: kfb, turn, p2, turn, k2tog

Switch to gray.

Knit 3 rounds.
(make bobble, k5) 3 times, k12, (make bobble, k5) 3 times
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round
k40, pm, k5, pm, k3, break yarn
With a new strand, return to the 5 stitches separated by markers and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette.
Bind off all 48 stitches continuously.
Break yarn, leaving enough to sew the eyes onto the body later.
Return to the first gray round you knit and pick up 56 sts counter-clockwise (looking at the right side of the eye). 
Knit four rounds (the purl bumps should face out).
Bind off.
Weave in ends.

Right-Eye Goggle:

Special instructions—make bobble: kfb, turn, p2, turn, k2tog

Switch to gray.

Knit 3 rounds.
k6, (make bobble, k5) 6 times, k6
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round
k15, pm, k5, pm, k28, break yarn
With a new strand, return to the 5 stitches separated by markers and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette.
Bind off all 48 stitches continuously.
Break yarn.
Return to the first gray round you knit and pick up 56 sts counter-clockwise (looking at the right side of the eye). 
Knit four rounds (the purl bumps should face out).
Bind off.

Weave in ends.

Sew the two eyes together.

With black yarn, pick up six stitches from bind-off edge of one of the sets of five stitches. 
Knit stockinette flat until the black can reach all around the body to the other set of five stitches. 
Slip one black st off at a time and use a crochet hook to pull it onto the other side of the gray. Slip the black stitches back onto the needle. 
Bind off the black stitches, leaving enough yarn to sew the strap on later. (This bind-off is only necessary if you wish to avoid sewing as much as possible, which is the case with me. If you don't mind sewing, just bind off the black and sew it onto the glasses.)

Stuff inside of eyes, then sew the eyes and black strap to minion’s head.

When you're done, move on to Part 4 to continue with overalls!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 2: Arms and Hands

If you've yet to start your minion, see Part 1 for the torso instructions!

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Bright Yellow and Black
US size 7 dpns
polyester fiber-fill
Optional: craft wire



(make two)
CO 13 w/ long-tail cast on and yellow yarn, leaving enough yarn to sew; join in round.
Knit until desired length (mine are about six inches long).
Switch to black.
Knit 3 rounds.
(kfb, k1) (20) (ends kfb)
K (20)
(kfb, k4) (24)
K (24)
Knit first and last four sts; hold the rest on waste yarn (8)
Knit three rounds; pull yarn through sts
Pick up and knit next and last four sts; hold the rest on waste yarn (8)
Knit five rounds; pull yarn through sts
Pick up and knit the remaining eight sts
Knit three rounds; pull yarn through sts
Pick up 13 sts from the first black row counter-clockwise.
Purl three rounds.
Bind off purl-wise, weave in all ends, and stuff.
Optional: insert a wire into the arms to make the minion pose-able (I quadrupled the wire to make it thicker).
Sew arms onto body.

Now it's time to move on to Part 3: the eye!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 1: Torso

I love Despicable Me minions. You could say I'm a little obsessed with them--I bought McDonald's Happy Meals because they're giving out minion toys. I usually avoid McDonald's like the plague. That's how much I love minions. They are so adorable, and just looking at them makes anybody smile. So, they're my newest knitting project. There weren't many knitting patterns, and I didn't really like the ones I found, so I'm using All About Ami's tumblr as inspiration. Hers is crocheted, though... so here's my adapted knitting pattern!

Finished size: about 12" long (life-size!)
Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver bright yellow and black (for hair)
U.S. Size #7 DPNs and/or circular needles
Gauge: 19.5 stitches x 26 rows = 4" x 4" in stockinette
white glue
polyester fiber-fill

CO 8 using an invisible cast-on (I used the disappearing loop cast-on)
Round 1: K (8)
2: KFB all around (16)
3: K (16)
4: *KFB, K1 around (24)
5: K (24)
6: *KFB, K2 around (32)
7: K (32)
8: *KFB, K3 around (40)
9: K (40)
10: *KFB, K4 around (48)
11: K (48)
12: *KFB, K5 around (56)
13: K (56)
14: *KFB, K7 around (63)
15: K (63)
16: *KFB, K8 around (70)
17: K (70)
18: *KFB, K9 around (77)
19: K (77)
20: *KFB, K10 around (84)
21: K (84)
22: *KFB, K13 around (90)
23: K (90)
24: *KFB, K44 around (92)
25: *KFB, K45 around (94)
26: KFB, K93 (95)
27: KFB, K94 (96)
28-80: K (96) (feel free to add or subtract a few rows to taste!)

Before you start closing up the minion, add some hair...
Cut lengths of black yarn and tie a knot at the ends. Use your fingers to rub white glue along the length of the yarn so it stiffens. When dry, poke the yarn through the top of the minion, then trim the hair to the desired length, if necessary.
Also, it's a good time to start stuffing!

81: ssk, K94 (95)
82: ssk, K93 (94)
83: *ssk, K45 around (92)
84: *ssk, K44 around (90)
85: K (90)
86: *ssk, K13 around (84)
87: K (84)
88: *ssk, K10 around (77)
89: K (77)
90: *ssk, K9 around (70)
91: K (70)
92: *ssk, K8 around (63)
93: K (63)
94: *ssk, K7 around (56)
95: K (56)
96: *ssk, K5 around (48)
97: K (48)
98: *ssk, K4 around (40)
99: K (40)
100: *ssk, K3 around (32)
101: K (32)
102: *ssk, K2 around (24)
103: K (24)
104: *ssk, K1 around (16)
105: K (16) (and finish up stuffing)
106: ssk all around (8)
107: K (8)
Cut yarn and pull through remaining loops; weave in ends.

See Part 2 for the arms and hands!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Mesh Yarns: Who's Who

So after my initial foray into the realm of mesh yarns, I returned to Michael's with my mom and sister so they could choose colors for more ruffle scarves. And I have now knit with three brands of mesh yarn. There's Red Heart Sashay, Patons Pirouette, and Premier Starbella Flash. How are they different? Let's see...

Length: A skein of Sashay is 30 yards long, Starbella 33, and Pirouette 17. However, since the holes of Pirouette are wider, you can cast on five stitches for a scarf. Five stitches of Pirouette is about the same length as six of Sashay or eight of Starbella.

Mesh: As I've already noted, Pirouette holes are wider, so with the every-two-big-space rule, the spacing between each row is also wider. This makes the ruffles less dense--each starts where the previous one ends, unlike Sashay, where the ruffles are more "stacked." Also, Sashay's mesh is made of thinner string than Pirouette and Starbella, so while Sashay is knit with the top two strands, I feel comfortable knitting Pirouette and Starbella with only the top strand. Starbella's holes are wide enough to use one hole per stitch.

Price: At Michael's, Sashay is $4.99 a skein, Pirouette $5.99, and Starbella $6.99 (which is why I originally chose Sashay ;) ). But each brand offers many different colors and textures--Pirouette's edge, for example, is cotton-ball soft, while Starbella and Sashay have a metallic edge.

Literary Analyses

Warning: this is a rant.

I hate highly dislike reading books in English class. Because invariably, the teacher always makes us look for symbolism and foreshadowing and the HIDDEN MEANING of EVERYTHING. Interestingly enough, the hidden meanings are exactly the same from teacher to teacher to Sparknotes. And this is not a dig on Sparknotes, but please read this sentence: "Since Milkman is able to conceal his leg, he believes that he can also hide his emotional shortcomings." This is from the Sparknotes on Song of Solomon (by Toni Morrison--summer reading, woohoo).

Who decides what's right and what's wrong? That Milkman example I can kinda buy, though unwillingly. But half the time I feel like literary critics just want to sound smart. And honestly, the very existence of Sparknotes is PROOF that there are STRICTLY STANDARDIZED INTERPRETATIONS OF LITERATURE. Please.

This past year in English class, I remember reading about symbols. The passage said something along the lines of (and this is very much paraphrased), "Symbols should be obvious. A reader should not impose symbolism. It is better to miss symbols than to assign a meaning to an inordinate number of objects." Thank you, English textbook -_-

I think books should be for pleasure. If people want their stories to have moral values, they should be obvious enough for any reader to pick up.

And what's the point of symbols anyway? Why does it matter what First Corinthians and Magdalene called Lena's artificial roses symbolize? They play their part in story, that's all. Of what importance is the fake love, other than what can already be seen by Milkman's behavior?

And this is not even a rant about Song of Solomon--it's just on my mind because I've been reading it for school.

Literature is an art. And art is extremely subjective. I mean, this is pretty much like the artsy people who stand in front of a canvas of blobs and streaks and say, "That green dot represents peace, but its small size and position in the corner mean that it's relatively unfounded" when there's a wide green slash through the center of the canvas.

But then there are books like Orwell's Animal Farm, where, if you know your history, there's not way you can miss the parallelism. I hated could not stand the book. Do you really not have anything else to write about? You have to just take history and play it out on a farm? Furthermore, pigs are my favorite animals. A complete non sequitur, but still. (However, I very much enjoyed 1984.)

Ahem. And now I am done.

Tutorial: T-Shirt Upcycle Project: Woven Potholder

So I've been cutting up lots of shirts for my t-shirt quilt (which is still a work-in-progress--I just have some blocks of interfaced shirts), and so I have lots of shirt left over. I used some for Christmas presents--specifically, potholders. I made two types: a woven one, and a knotted one. Both are nice and thick and perfect for protecting tables from heat! Even better, they require minimal sewing.

I'll devote this post to the woven potholder, which looks something like this:

 

 That one is currently in California, in the possession of one very lucky aunt ;) But no worries--I started another one in the winter that I just dug up today and added to:

 

 

And here's how I did it (I made mine with five strands, so these instructions will be for five, but this'll work with however many you wish.) :
1. Get five strands of t-yarn (see a tutorial here)
*For mine, I took the hem of a t-shirt, ripped out the seam, and cut it lengthwise. That provided me with more than enough t-yarn for one potholder.
2. Take a needle and thread (sad face) and stitch the five strands together.
3. Start weaving... take the right-most strand and go all the way to the left. The mantra is "over under over under." Then take the new right-most strand and go over under over under (the last under is the strand you just used to weave).
4. After the woven section is long enough to circle up flat (about ten to twelve stitches), start the magic that takes the place of needle and thread...
5. Before you weave with the next strand, find the loop from your first woven stitch (I'm pointing to it here, but I'm on the second time around. Same idea, though...) ...

6. ...and pull the next strand up through the loop...

7. ...then continue weaving.

(my thumb is not bleeding--I was experimenting with a bottle of nail polish and intended to wipe it off before it dried, but, well, it dried. I got it off later in the day :) )

 

8. Repeat steps 5-7 as you continue weaving. I put anywhere from one to three strands into a single loop before I move one--it depends how far the weave has gotten.

 

 

As you work, make sure to tug the strands tight and ensure that the pot holder is staying flat. If the sides start to curl up, loosen the edges a little.

 

When you reach the desired size, start weaving from the left to the right to taper the end circularly, then stitch the strands together and snip off any excess. You don't have to taper, but I don't like seeing an obvious break-off point.

 

So that's it! It's very easy once you get the feel of it. I hope you enjoy! (You can also make smaller versions as coasters, but considering the season, potholders might be of more use :) )

Red Heart Sashay Frilly Scarf

So I was wandering around Michael's the other day, and came across a sample of Red Heart Sashay hanging oh-so-invitingly on the shelf. I was hooked. I've never seen a mesh-style yarn before. And I absolutely could not help myself, so I bought a skein. That's enough for a scarf.

 (How can you not give in to curiosity when this is hanging in Michael's?)

 

I cast on six stitches (I say "cast on," but I mean "poked needle through six holes"--absolutely great!) and started knitting! The trick is to only use the top two strands of the mesh, not the whole thing. And you just pull the rest out as you go. Since it was only six stitches wide and one skein long, it was a very quick project--not nearly enough time to get bored of just plain knitting. Also, the mesh part kept me enthralled the whole time.

What's even better is that there's barely any finishing--the pattern directions call for needle and thread, but I just knotted the ends and hid the knots in the ruffles. And voila, after a day of knitting, I have a scarf!

Oddly, mine is pretty short--a lot less than the five feet I should've gotten from one skein. Maybe I knit too tightly? But it's okay because it's long enough for my taste. Also, my ruffles seem to be stacked very closely on top of each other--probably the same problem. I've found that I can pull each ruffle in opposite directions, though, which makes the whole thing look a lot poofier and nicer.

I'm not really into frills or decorative scarves... but I must find an outfit and occasion for this!

Update: I re-knit this scarf while consciously telling myself to stay loose, and the results were so much better! By loose, I mean extremely loose--knit with every other big hole. The yarn calls for US size 9 needles, but you could probably go 1.5 times thicker. That's how loose I'm talking. But why I like it: 1.) The scarf is longer. 2.) The ruffles look more like ruffles and less like circles stacked one atop of another, and the tugging in opposite directions is unnecessary. So much better--KNIT LOOSELY!!!

scrap yarn pictures

Wow it's been so long since I've written...
Well, I've finally gotten around to squaring off my scrap yarn patch and taking some pictures...

The pink patch was made by picking up stitches along the blue and yellow patches.

The white, blue, and yellow patches were knit after the pink one, and I just inserted my needle into the pink patch before knitting the first stitch (see previous post for clarification). As you can see, the join is quite neat.

The back, full of knots--I'll have to fix that up

And of course, the front!

Any more scrap yarn I find/get is gonna end up here!



Tutorial: Glittens--what eventually happened

So those glittens I was talking about... here's my pattern!

Deborah Norville Serenity sock yarn

US size 1 needles

m1: make a stitch by picking up the loop between the stitch you have just knitted and the next one, place it on the left hand needle and knit into the back of it

I used cable cast-on for fingers; knit cast-on for thumb/mitten flaps

LEFT HAND

Cast on 60 sts (on a size 5 needle) and join in round
Switch to size 1 needles
Rib 30 rounds
Stockinette 6 rounds

Thumb Gusset:
K27, place marker, m1, K1, m1, place marker, K32
K 2 rounds
K27, m1, K3, m1, K32
K 2 rounds
Continue increasing as such until there are 19 sts between the markers.
K 5 rounds (so the 2 that usually come after the increase rounds, plus three more)
K27, slip the next 19 sts on hold, K32 (59 sts)
K 15 rounds

Pinkie:

K7, slip all but the last 7 sts on hold, CO 3, K7 (17 sts)
K 11 rounds
Cast off (with a size 5 needle)

Upper Hand:

Rejoin yarn at base and pick up the 3 cast-on sts (48 sts)
K all sts on hold
K 5 rounds

Ring Finger:

K10, slip all but the last 6 sts on hold, CO 3, K6 (19 sts)
K 17 rounds
Cast off (with a size 5 needle)

Middle Finger:
Rejoin yarn at base and pick up the 3 cast-on sts
K7, slip all but the last 7 sts on hold, CO 3, K7 (20 sts)
K 23 rounds
Cast off (with a size 5 needle)

Pointer Finger:

Rejoin yarn at base and pick up the 3 cast-on sts
K all sts on hold (18 sts)
K 18 rounds
Cast off (with a size 5 needle)

Thumb:

Pick up 4 sts, knit sts on hold (23 sts)
K 10 rounds
Cast off (with a size 5 needle)

Mitten Flap:

Pick up 30 sts on back of glove, approximately 10 rows down from the base of the little finger (about where base knuckles of fingers will be). Do this by slipping a needle into the right side of each stitch, EXCEPT for the first and last stitch where I picked up both sides of the stitch. Work towards the thumb and knit all these sts, remembering to treat the first and last stitch as only 1 stitch each. Then cast on 34 sts and join into a round. (64 sts)
K30, K2P2 rib next 34 sts, for 6 rounds
K 26 rounds
k1, ssk, k24, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k28, k2tog, k1 (60 sts)
k1, ssk, k22, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k26, k2tog, k1 (56 sts)
Continue decreasing like this till you have completed:
k1, ssk, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1 (12 sts)
k1, ssk, k1; k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1 (9 sts)
k3; k1, ssk, k2tog, k1 (7 sts)
k3; k1, ssk, k1 (6 sts)
Cut and pull yarn through remaining sts

Thumb Flap:
Pick up 12 sts on back of glove, approximately 8 rows down from the top of the thumb (same way as for mitten flap). Work towards the thumb and knit all these sts, remembering to treat the first and last stitch as only 1 stitch each. Then cast on 12 sts and join into a round. (24 sts)
K12, K1, K2P2 rib, end K1 for 6 rounds
K 15 rounds
k2tog all around (12 sts)
k2tog all around (6 sts)
k2tog all around (3 sts)
Cut and pull yarn through remaining sts.

Weave in ends.

RIGHT HAND

Same as left hand except for the following:

Thumb Gusset:

K32, place marker, m1, K1, m1, place marker, K27
K 2 rounds
K32, m1, K3, m1, K27
K 2 rounds
Continue increasing as such until there are 19 sts between the markers.
K 5 rounds (so the 2 that usually come after the increase rounds, plus three more)
K32, slip the next 19 sts on hold, K27 (59 sts)
K 15 rounds

Ring Finger:

K6, slip all but the last 10 sts on hold, CO 3, K10 (19 sts)
K 17 rounds
Cast off (with a size 5 needle)

Mitten Flap:

Work towards the pinkie.

Thumb Flap:

Work towards the pinkie.

Note: I would add maybe 5 more rounds to the mitten flaps before I started to decrease next time. Also, maybe knit a couple more rows at the end of the thumb gusset (it was a tight fit for me, and my hands are relatively small.)

 

Tutorial: scrap yarn patchwork

Scrap yarn. Too short to use for anything (other than taking up space). Too long to throw away. So I've decided to just knit it all into a huge rectangle-ish thing. It's doubly wonderful because I can experiment with new stitch patterns, but I can also just do something easy (garter stitch) as I'm studying. It keeps my hands busy but not my brain. Perfect.

I did a lot of provisional casting on and picking up stitches. And I highly dislike sewing, so I just connect everything together as I knit. Here's how...
(note: the boxes are blocks of knitting. Lines are ridges of garter stitch. For ease, I will refer to a block of knitting that is already there as black, and the block that is being worked red.)

Scenario 1: Attach along side ~ When you get to the end of every other row (where the end is next to the other block of knitting), slip your needle into a hole along the side of the black block. Then knit both the black stitch and the first red stitch together. This creates a little wrap-around of red around black, but since you're doing it regularly up the side, it doesn't look messy.

Scenario 2: Bind off against another block ~ I guess you  could use the kitchener stitch. But this method produces a line of the black's edge and a red line from the bind off. Take a crochet hook and, one by one, take each red stitch and pull it through a hole in the black, replacing the stitch on another needle. When all the red stitches are pulled up through the black, cast off.

 

I made mine with all different sizes of knitting. I like the crazy look of it--my sole aim is to not have two blocks of the same color touching.

 

And because it's scrap yarn, there's a LOT of joining yarn. Which is another one of those things I dislike (but not as much as sewing). ANYWAY, I tied knots. Lots of 'em. Let me repeat that. THERE ARE LOTS OF KNOTS IN MY KNITTING! (Ooh, rhyme) Yes. For some reason, every site I've ever looked at has denounced knots. Heresy! they say. Abomination to the knitting! But knots make joining yarn easy (and I feel very secure). They take up less yarn. They are only ugly if you look at the wrong side of the work. And the thing's not intended to be worn, so comfort's not an issue (actually, I'm not really sure what it is intended for...hmm...). So how I join yarn is, I just stop with the old strand and start with the new (making sure the ends are on the wrong side of the work). After I work a few more stitches with the new strand, I take the dangly ends and KNOT THEM TOGETHER!!! I guess I'll weave in the ends. Maybe. Or leave them dangling. Eh. Or... KNIT THEM INTO THE WORK! (Of course, make sure to leave the itty bitty ends hanging out the wrong side) If, like me, you're not extremely picky. After all, that's what the double-stranding technique is when you weave in the ends.