School Scarf, Harry Potter Style!

I had a sudden moment of inspiration a couple weeks ago for a new knitting project: a school scarf. I wanted something Harry Potter -esque--you know, with the stripes and maybe a logo. On a side note, there are so many variations of Harry Potter scarves online.

It was fate, then, that when I went to Michaels for some yarn, they had a varsity stripes set (scarf and hat) knitting pattern for free. I grabbed a skein of navy and one of gold, and headed home to design the perfect paw print (know where I go yet?).

Instagram @crafty_ccc

I used the same designing technique that I used for the birds and trees hat. I drew the design on a piece of paper, then drew a grid on top, basically making a chart. Then I open an Excel file, square up the cells, and fill the cells according to my hand-drawn chart. The hard part for me is deciding what to do with squares that are half and half. After that, it's trial and error. I knit a sample and tweak it until I have something I love. Make sure you knit the sample the way you intend to knit the real deal. For example, I stranded my samples, but then decided to use double knitting for the real thing. It ended up stretching the design so much horizontally that I had to start all over.

To design the scarf, I had to decide a few things how to deal with the color work and what pattern to use for the scarf. As I mentioned, I decided the use double knitting for the paw designs. I didn't have enough yarn to make the entire scarf in the round, and I didn't want messy stranding work to be visible. To start double knitting in sections, I added the second color (gold in this case) by holding it with the first color and treating them as one strand on a wrong side row. I made sure to pick up the strands under the other one when I got to the double knit sections. To end the double knit sections, I used p2tog on a wrong side row. I'm pretty happy with the results. For the scarf pattern, I used k2, p2 on the right side and purled the wrong side, resulting in ribbing that alternates stockinette with garter stitch. It's supposed to lie flat (I will depend upon the powers of blocking), and I think it makes a nice, neutral base for the stripes.

I'm really excited to be almost finished with this scarf!

Blocking

I just tried steam blocking for the first time and it was magical. I could see the seed-stitched edges of the scarf relax and flatten before my very eyes. I can't believe I waited so long to try it! My scarf now lies flat, and the design (Ravelry pattern here) is visible when worn. Did I mention how happy I was with the result?

I've only blocked once before. I used a 100% wool yarn for the first time (my rambling thoughts on Sheep(ish) from two years ago here), and since I thought wet blocking sounded pretty simple, I decided to try it out. There wasn't anything that I was really trying to shape, so I ended up just soaking the scarf in water and laying it out to dry. The end result didn't look any different from what I started with, and I decided that day that blocking wasn't as necessary as everyone made it out to be.

Here is an old picture of the scarf drying on a trash bag (unconventional, I know). Looking at it now, I really should have straightened out the ends and squared the whole thing up... but I guess it has its own charm this way, too.

Oops.

A few weeks ago, I knit a wave pattern that wasn't really visible unless you stretched the knitting out. So I knew I had to block it. I knit with Deborah Norville's Serenity Sock yarn, which is a blend of 50% merino wool, 25% bamboo, and 25% nylon. Since it was mostly wool, I decided to try wet blocking. That worked pretty well. Although the scarf shrank a bit when I unpinned it, the wave pattern is very visible now, and I managed to scallop the edges a bit.

Work in progress shot

Then, since I had nothing else to do that day and didn't feel like knitting right then, I decided to try steam blocking.

I finished a scarf three years ago (whoa I'm getting old) when I was getting back into knitting. After learning to purl and making a couple potholders, I decided to tackle a scarf with the beautiful teal Bernat Satin my sister had gotten me for Christmas. Unfortunately, she had only gotten me one skein, so the project was put on hold as I decided I wanted to finish the project, ran to all the craft stores in the area and found no teal Bernat Satin, and finally ordered it online. I was really happy with the scarf when it was done. My tension was even, the color was beautiful, and the pattern was fantastic. However, even though the stockinette-based pattern was bordered by seed stitch, the scarf curled inward on the side. I didn't mind the texture that you can see in the wip shot, but I had to carefully lay the scarf out so that the edges were visible. And no matter how hard I tried, the beautiful pattern I'd worked so hard on was never visible when the scarf was worn. What was the point? I knew that I should block it. The pattern called for it, every knitting site praised blocking. But this yarn is acrylic. Meaning I'd have to use the iron. The iron is barely used in our house. Nobody really needs it. I started using it a lot this past winter while I was working on my t-shirt quilt, though, so I felt more confident about using it.


So finally... the blocking. I brought out the ironing board and laid a towel on it. Then I laid out the scarf as neatly as I could, right side up. Which was a mistake--more on that later. Then I set up the iron and got started! I held the iron right above the surface of the knitting in sections, staying in each spot for about five seconds and moving over the entire scarf. For the edges, I peered under the iron and held it until the edge laid completely flat, about ten seconds. I loved watching the tight, wavy border relax. Blocking also helped my cast-on edge a lot, too--the corner was sticking up.

This (terrible) picture of the wrong side taken by my dying phone shows the dramatic difference blocking made for the scarf. I couldn't lay the whole thing out on the ironing board, so after I finished one half, I laid out the other half. I was worried I would mess something up by not waiting for it to dry, but it didn't seem to make a difference. The photo shows a section that is half blocked, half unblocked. Near the top of the scarf, the seed stitch edge opens out, while near the bottom, the edge curls inward. When I was done, the whole thing lay so flat.

After I was done blocking, I carefully gathered the scarf and lay it out on a trash bag to dry (I had to clear the ironing area). Again, the movement didn't seem to affect anything. 

Now, the reason I should have gone wrong side up: See those shiny areas in the picture? They're not that obvious (I hope). That's from the iron. It was leaking water from the sole plate for some reason, and though I tried to keep it off the scarf, it still got splashed. I'm not sure if the hot water actually killed the yarn, but its effects are definitely visible. Hopefully, I can fix the iron problem in the future (maybe manual steam instead of constant steam). So make sure your iron steams well!

I can't wait to block a bunch of other projects--another scarf from two or three years ago, the basketweave blanket, the new scarf I'm working on..

Summer Shenanigans: Knitting

Summer is here! Summer is actually almost gone. Sad. I didn't touch my t-shirt quilt; it's still sitting in my closet. I guess the prospect of finding batting and fabric for the other side was too daunting. Instead, I made a lot of food and knit quite a bit, burning through a lot of my stash and turning most of it into brioche scarves and cowls. I hosted a photo shoot the other day to feature them... here are some of my favorites!

For more pictures, check out my Facebook page :)

Brioche Infinity Scarf

Last night, I posted a picture of my brioche infinity scarf on Facebook, and it got a lot of positive feedback, so I thought I'd share the exact pattern. If you are familiar with brioche stitch, this is a quick and easy knit. If not, brioche is pretty repetitive and easy to pick up, so there's no better time to learn!

BRIOCHE INFINITY SCARF

*Note: You can seam or graft the ends together. I haven't found a good way to graft brioche, so either way, the join will be visible. If you wear the scarf with the join in the back, it's completely unnoticeable, so neither grafting or seaming is better than the other. (If you know of a way to graft brioche, let me know!)

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Solids, Cherry Red (1 skein)
Needles: US Size #11
Gauge: 15 sts x 7.5 rows = 4" x 4" in pattern (In brioche stitch, one "V" counts as one row and is formed by working back and forth, so one counted row is actually two rows worked back and forth.)

Finished dimensions: about 9" x 5'

Brioche Pattern:
Row 1 (WS): sl1wyib, k2tog, *sl1wyif, yo, k2tog. Rep from * to last st. k1.
Row 2: sl1wyib, *sl1wyif, yo, k2tog. Rep from * to last 2 sts. sl1wyif, yo, k1.

Scarf:
Cast on 29 sts loosely. Use a provisional cast-on if you plan to graft the two ends of the scarf together. (You can also seam the ends together.)
Row 1 (RS): sl1wyib. *sl1wyif, yo, k1. Rep from * to end of row.
Now work in Brioche Pattern until there is just enough yarn to graft or bind off and seam the two edges together. I ended up with about 5 feet of scarf.
Graft to the provisional cast on. Alternatively, bind off and seam to the cast-on edge.
Weave in ends.

This pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Brioche Scarves

I discovered brioche stitch last year when I knit my dad a scarf for Christmas. I love its squishiness and warmth and drape! It's also a very neutral pattern that works for men and women--I feel like I can knit it in any color and style and it'll look great.

 

Here's the scarf I knit for my dad last year. I knit it with Red Heart Super Saver on size 11 knitting needles. I love the extra squish the large needles give. If you use different colors for the edges, as I did in black here, note that one edge will have one more stitch than the other (because brioche needs to be worked over an odd number of stitches). Happily for me, it's not very noticeable.

About a year ago, I also bought a skein of Red Heart Super Saver in cherry red to use on myself. I wasn't sure what to make, though. Eventually, I decided I wanted to use up the whole skein on one project, and after some trial and error, my brioche infinity scarf was made. It is so warm, and the loose tension makes the knitting stretchy, which makes the scarf even more versatile. Just knit away until you're out of yarn, then seam or graft the two ends together. I actually used a provisional cast on so I could graft, but after spending a lot of time trying to figure out how to graft brioche, I ended up using the stockinette version of the Kitchener stitch, which is by no means invisible, but I wear the scarf with the graft in the back, anyway, so in the end, it doesn't matter too much.

This is my first infinity scarf (Brioche Infinity Scarf), and I'm finding lots of new and fun ways to wear one. I'm discovering why these scarves as so popular!

Update 1/12/15: Also, two-color brioche is beautiful. I learned it here. This Christmas, I converted my boyfriend into a scarf-wearer with this. He wears it all the time! 

And my mom, after seeing that, wanted one, too, so I was working on this the past couple of days. (The matching shirt was completely unintentional.) She gets it when she comes visit me for my birthday in a few weeks :)

Check out Summer Shenanigans for more!

Basketweave Blanket

I've wanted to knit a blanket for a while; however, the amount of yarn I would need to purchase always put me off. Recently, there was a huge yarn sale near me at the Pittsburgh Center for Creative Reuse (a fabulous nonprofit), so of course I went. I bought six skeins of Red Heart Super Saver for nine dollars, but because of the number of skeins of each color I had, I agonized over patterns for a while. I knew I wanted something fairly simple that I could work on while reading. I remembered the basketweave stitch patterns I'd come across while looking for scarf ideas. I love the texture of basketweave in the pictures, so I decided to go with that. To solve the problem of different numbers of skeins of different colors, I decided to arrange blocks in a pattern. After trial knits and measuring yarn and lots of knots, I finalized my pattern and got started. Here's what I eventually came up with.

This is a pretty heavy blanket, and it's on the stiffer side. I love curling up underneath it on the sofa!


BASKETWEAVE BLANKET

Needles: US Size 9 Circular needles are ideal because they can hold more stitches and more weight, but this works on straight needles as well. You don't want to know how I know.

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver White, 4 skeins; Red Heart Super Saver Aran, 2 skeins; Red Heart Super Saver Navy Blue, 2 skeins*
Finished Dimensions: 40.5" x 69.25"
Gauge: 16 stitches x 26 rows = 4" x 4" in Basketweave Pattern

*Note: Because there are times you will need three separate balls of navy, I pre-cut three pieces of navy, each about 47 yards long, for the squares in the middle (see chart below). I actually made the blanket one skein (but I was pretty desperate for yarn by the end), so after I cut yarn for the three sections in the middle, I worked each side of the border with one end of the yarn.

In love with this texture!

Basketweave Pattern:

Rows 1 (RS)-3: k32

Row 4, 6: k3, (p2, k6), p2, k3

Row 5: k2, p1, (k2, p6), k2, p1, k2

Row 7: k32                                                

Row 8, 10: k7, (p2, k6), p2, k7

Row 9: k2, p5, (k2, p6), k2, p5, k2
Row 10: k32

Repeat rows 4 to 10 ten times.

Repeat rows 4 to 7.

Row 48: k32

Blanket:

Cast on 170 stitches in navy blue.

Knit 7 rows in garter stitch.

Maintain a 5-stitch navy blue border on both sides throughout.

Follow the colors shown below and use the basketweave pattern for each square. When working across, pick up the new colored yarn under the old color to minimize sewing later. It also creates a neat stitch-like pattern on the wrong side.**

Knit 7 rows in navy blue in garter stitch.

Bind off and weave in ends.

32 sts 48 rows

*Image note: For some reason, the navy blue perimeter is missing a chunk in the upper left. I'm not sure why this is happening, but it's there!

**Here's the wrong side of my blanket. In addition to the woven ends which I didn't cut (since it's for me and I don't really care :D ), you can see the two types of edges between the navy blue and white. The right edge is a result of the wrong side bumps, but the left edge is the result of picking up the new color from underneath the old color!

This pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Birds and Trees Hat

After seeing the panda hat I knit for my friend, my sister asked for a ski hat for Christmas. However, she was worried that it wouldn't be warm enough. I assured her I could knit with two strands held together as one, doubling thickness and warmth.

Then I found double knitting.

Basically, you work two pieces at once, and the stitches alternate between the front piece and the back piece. You cast on and bind off with both colors held together. If you're working flat, one stitch on each edge is also worked with both strands together. You carry both strands together to the front or back of the work, but only choose one to loop around the needle. The result is double-sided--the same pattern on each side with the colors inverted.

I knit looser with this technique than usual--just something to watch out for.

I searched for some designs, and came across this one from The Purl Bee. With a table in Microsoft Word, I changed the pattern a bit to incorporate some birds (my sister's favorite animal). Add some ear flaps and a pompom and it's done! I am very pleased with how the hat turned out. My sister thinks it's warm enough, too!

(Sadly, the addition of the pompom means my sister can't wear this the other way.)

Violin Pig

A few months ago, my violin teacher asked if I could knit her something. Because I love pigs, she requested a palm-sized stuffed pig that she could use to teach students not to squeeze the neck of the instrument. I based this design largely off Apocalypse Knits' Chichester Pig but basically enlarged it. A lot.

Finished dimensions: 3 1/4 in. long by 2 1/8 in. high
Lion Brand Baby Soft pink
US size 1 dpns (set of 5)

Special instructions:
make ear:
k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 in one stitch
Knit 10 rows in stockinette.
Slip the 2nd stitch over the first, then the 3rd stitch over the first, etc. until only 1 stitch is left.
make leg 1:
(k1, p1, k1, p1) in one stitch two times (8)
Knit 12 rows in stockinette.
Slip stitches as in ear, leaving 2 sts.
make leg 2:
(k1, p1, k1, p1) in one stitch two times (8)
Knit 11 rows in stockinette.
Slip stitches as in ear, leaving 2 sts.
Turn, k2

Note: Stagger the increases to avoid a polygonal result.

Cast on four stitches using the easy circular cast-on; join in round.
kfb around (8)
kfb around (16)
k around
p around
k 3 more rounds
(kfb, k1) around (24)
k around
(kfb, k2) around (32)
k around
(kfb, k3, kfb, k4) around (39)
k around
(kfb, k4, kfb, k5) around (46)
k around
(kfb, k6, kfb, k7) around (52)
k1, make ear, k9, make ear, k to end of round
(kfb, k12) around (56)
k around
(kfb, k27) around (58)
k29, make leg 1, k10, make leg 2, k to end of round
kfb, k57 (59)
kfb, k58 (60)
k 9 rounds
From (kfb, k58), read up the pattern replacing kfb with ssk until you finish (ssk, k12) around (52 sts). Knit one round and start stuffing.
(ssk, k5 or 6) around (45)
k around
(ssk, k4 or 5) around (38)
k around
(ssk, k2 or 3) around (30)
k around
(ssk, k1 or 2) around (22)
k around
(ssk, k0 or 1) around (14)
k around and finish stuffing.
(ssk) around (7)
k3tog, k1, k3tog (3)
Insert wire if desired.
Knit I-cord (around wire, if applicable) until desired length.
Curl into tail shape (sew if necessary)
Break yarn; pull tail through remaining loops.
Weave in ends.
Embroider eyes and nostrils.

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Mobius Knitting

A Mobius strip is a ring of paper that has only one side and one edge. Don't believe me? Try it out:
1. Cut a strip of paper.
2. Twist one end 180 degrees.
3. Tape the two ends together.
4. Grab a pen and draw a line down the middle of your Mobius strip without picking up your pen.
Cool, isn't it?

I got a ball of fern Bernat Softee Chunky yarn for Christmas a couple of years ago, and I had no idea what to do with it. I decided to go for a one-skein project--a Mobius cowl. All you need for Mobius knitting is Cat Bordhi's Mobius cast-on and a little imagination. Mobius knitting is nice to wear because of that one built-in twist. The Internet has so many other Mobius possibilities.

Basically, you start from the middle of the Mobius strip and knit outwards with each round. Mobius knitting is possible because a Mobius strip has only one edge, and you go around and around it. While it's on your needles, the Mobius strip is folded in half, so your marker passes by underneath your needles once every round.

The confusing thing about Mobius knitting is that halfway through, when you get onto the other side of your cast-on middle, the right side and wrong side seem to flip. To knit a Mobius strip in stockinette, you'd actually have to knit half the round, then purl the other half. As a first-time Mobius knitter, I decided to stick with a garter stitch design--I knit the first round and purled the second. I cast on about ninety stitches and knit with US size #11 needles.

 

Since I was determined to use up all the yarn (and use it all I did), the cowl turned out quite large--perfect for bundling up when the winter comes!

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 5: Feet and Legs

Edit July 2015: I rewrote the pattern for the feet. The pattern remains the same, but the written pattern has been revised.

If you have yet to start a minion, see Part 1 to get started!

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Country Blue and Black

US size 7 circular needles

polyester fiber-fill

(make 2)

Boot:
CO 8 sts with Figure Eight Cast-on and black yarn. (16)
Knit 1 round (16)

Place half the stitches on the needle and *[(k1, p1, k1) in 1 st, knit to last st on needle, (k1, p1, k1) in 1 st] (24)

k1, pm (end Section 1), k2, pm (end Section 2), k6, pm (end Section 3), k1, pm (end Section 4), k2 (end Section 5); k2, pm (end Section 6), k1, pm (end Section 7), k6, pm (end Section 8), k2, pm (end Section 9), k1, pm (end Section 10)

Sections 1 and 2: Knit to last st in Section, kfb; Section 3: Knit; Sections 4 and 5: Knit to last st in Section, kfb; Sections 6 and 7: kfb, knit to end of section; Section 8: Knit; Sections 9 and 10: kfb, knit to end of section (32 sts)

Knit 1 round (32)
Repeat increase round (40)
Knit 5 rounds, removing markers and placing one at middle of round. Make sure decreases are centered on marker.
k18, ssk, k2tog, k18 (38)
K 1 round
k13, ssk 3 times, k2tog 3 times, k13 (32)
K 1 round
k8, ssk 4 times, k2tog 4 times, k8 (24)
K 1 round
k4, ssk4 times, k2tog 4 times, k4 (16)

Pant leg:
CO 18 sts with long-tail cast-on and blue yarn.
(RS) P 1 row
[p1, k1] into same stitch two times, p14, [p1, k1] into same stitch two times (22)
kfb two times, k18, kfb two times (26)
Loop CO 4 sts (Note: to prevent really loose stitches when you knit off these cast-on stitches, only cast on 3 stitches, then add the fourth on the next round after you've knit the three stitches.)
Join in round and place marker at the beginning of the round (30) 
Knit 2 rounds

Join the pant leg and the boot: 
Knit 1 blue stitch, then k2tog with one blue and one black. Repeat. (I lined up the four newly cast on stitches with the boot’s front four stitches and tried to spread the black stitches around the rest of the pant leg as evenly as possible.)

In the little diagram at the right, the bottom of the image is the front of the leg. Each dashed line on the circle represents a blue stitch, and circled stitches are knit together with a black stitch.

Knit 5 rounds, then...

Right foot:
K13, bind off 17
Bind off 3; break yarn, leaving enough to bind off the rest of the stitches and sew the leg later.
With a new strand, starting from where you left off, K9.
Turn.
Purl 6 stitches; break yarn
Return to the yarn that you broke earlier, and bind off the rest of the pant leg stitches.

Left foot:
Perform a short row wrap and turn: bring yarn to the front, slip 1 stitch off the left needle, bring yarn to back, slip stitch back onto left needle. Turn work.
P13, bind off 17 purl-wise. On the wrapped stitch, purl the wrap and the stitch together and bind off as usual. 
Bind off 3; break yarn, leaving enough to bind off the rest of the stitches and sew the leg later.
With a new strand, starting from where you left off, purl 9. 
Turn.
Knit 6; break yarn
Return to the yarn that you broke earlier, and bind off the rest of the pant leg stitches.

Weave in ends, stuff, and sew legs onto overalls (and through overalls to body, if desired)

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 4: Overalls

Revised July 2015

If you haven't started your minion yet, see Part 1 to get started!

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Country Blue and Bright Yellow (for detailing)

US size 7 circular needles

four black four-holed buttons, 3/8" in width
black felt

Follow instructions from Part 1 until Round 20 (84 stitches)

Knit two rounds (or until desired length).
p21, p1, k19, p1, p21, p1, k19, p1
Bind off 21 sts, p1, k19, p1, bind off 21 sts, p1, k19, p1
Turn. 

k1, p19, k1
k21
Repeat these two rows for about fifteen rows or until desired length.
Add one row of reverse stockinette (purl a RS row or knit a WS row)
Bind off.

Repeat the above section with the other set of 21 sts.

Separate yellow yarn into two sets with two plies each. Use this yarn to embroider the edges of the overalls.

Straps (make two):
CO 7 sts with long-tail cast on.
(WS) P 1 row
k2, make three-stitch buttonhole, k2
Continue in stockinette with a one-stitch garter edge until desired length.
Separate yellow yarn into two sets with two plies each. Use this yarn to embroider the edges of the straps.
Sew one button with blue yarn in a “+” shape onto each corner of the overalls; attach straps.

Pocket:

CO 12 sts with long-tail cast on.
Knit about 9 rows in stockinette.
(RS) ssk, k8, k2tog (10)
P
ssk, k6, k2tog (8)
p2tog, p4, p2tog tbl (6)
ssk, k2, k2tog (4)
Bind off all sts and weave in ends

Sew pocket onto overalls with two plies of yellow yarn; embroider top edge of pocket.

Cut Gru’s logo from black felt and glue it onto pocket. (Gru’s logo is basically a circle inside a square inside a circle with a black strip running from the inner to the outer circle through one of the square’s corners.)

When you're ready, move on to the last section Part 5, to add feet and legs!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

Tutorial: Despicable Me Minion: Part 3: Eye

Edited July 2015 to be more detailed (hopefully) and explicit.

If you haven't yet started your minion, see Part 1 and Part 2 to get started!

Note about eye: I decided not to make my eye detachable because I believe that as non-organic beings, minions need their glasses to be functional. Hence, the eye is connected to the glasses.

Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver Black, Brown, White, and Heather Gray

US size 7 circular needles

polyester fiber-fill

First, decide whether your minion will have one or two eyes. For two eyes, I suggest you do a quick "Find" search for "Two Eyes."

ONE EYE:

CO 4 with Disappearing Loop Cast-on with black yarn; join in round. Switch to brown.
kfb all around (8)
(kfb, k1) (12)
Switch to white.
(kfb, k2) (16)
(kfb, k3) (20)
(kfb, k4) (24)
(kfb, k5) (28)
(kfb, k6) (32)
(kfb, k7) (36) If you want your minion to have an eyelid, follow the instructions below.
(kfb, k8) (40)
(kfb, k9) (44)
(kfb, k10) (48)
(kfb, k11) (52)
(kfb, k12) (56) Now continue with "Goggles"!

One Eyelid:

(kfb, k8) 3 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k5 (40)
kfb, k6, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k9) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k6 (44)
kfb, k7, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k10) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k7 (48)
kfb, k8, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k11) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k8 (52)
kfb, k9, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k12) 2 times, kfb, k3, switch to yellow, k9 (56)

One Goggle:

Special instructions—make bobble: kfb, turn, p2, turn, k2tog

Switch to gray.

Knit 3 rounds.
(make bobble, k6) around
Knit 1 rounds.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round
k11, pm, k6, pm, k22, pm, k6, pm, k11, break yarn
With a new strand, return to a set of six stitches separated by markers and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette. Break yarn.
With a new strand, return to the other set of six stitches and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette.
Bind off all 56 stitches continuously.
Break yarn, leaving enough to sew the eye onto the body later.




Return to the first gray round you knit and pick up 56 sts counter-clockwise (looking at the right side of the eye). 

Note that my working yarn is on the right in the photo.

Knit four rounds. The purl bumps should face out.
Bind off.
Weave in ends.









With black yarn, pick up seven stitches from bind-off edge of one of the sets of six stitches. 
Knit stockinette flat until the black can reach all around the body to the other set of six stitches. 

Pulling stitches onto the wrong side

Using a crochet hook, slip one black stitch off the needle and pull it through the bind-off edge to the wrong side of the goggle.

Note that the inside of the eye and the right side of the strap will be facing you. 

Binding off

Once all the stitches are on the crochet hook, slip them back onto a knitting needle.

Bind off the black stitches, leaving enough yarn to sew the strap on later. 

(This bind-off is only necessary if you wish to avoid sewing as much as possible, which is the case with me. If you don't mind sewing, just bind off the black and sew it onto the glasses.)


Stuff inside of eye, then sew the eye and black strap to minion’s head.

When you're done, move on to Part 4 to continue with overalls!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!

TWO EYES:

Make two:

CO 4 with Disappearing Loop Cast-on with black yarn; join in round. Switch to brown.
kfb all around (8)
(kfb, k1) (12)
Switch to white.
(kfb, k2) (16)
(kfb, k3) (20)
(kfb, k4) (24)
(kfb, k5) (28)
(kfb, k6) (32) If you want your minion to have an eyelid, follow the instructions below.
(kfb, k7) (36) 
(kfb, k8) (40)
(kfb, k9) (44)
(kfb, k10) (48) Now continue with "Goggles"!

Two Eyelids:

(Edited 10/14/2015)
k3, switch to yellow, k4, kfb, k4, switch to white, k3, kfb, (k7, kfb) 2 times (36)
k2, switch to yellow, k4, kfb, k7, switch to white, k1, (kfb, k8) 2 times, kfb, k2 (40)k1, switch to yellow, k7, kfb, k7, switch to white, k2, (kfb, k9) 2 times, kfb, k1 (44)Switch to yellow, k10, kfb, k7, switch to white, k3, (kfb, k10) 2 times, kfb (48)

From here on, if something isn't clear, check the instructions for one eye to see if any of the photos help. If not, feel free to comment for clarifications!

Left-Eye Goggle:

Special instructions—make bobble: kfb, turn, p2, turn, k2tog

Switch to gray.

Knit 3 rounds.
(make bobble, k5) 3 times, k12, (make bobble, k5) 3 times
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round
k40, pm, k5, pm, k3, break yarn
With a new strand, return to the 5 stitches separated by markers and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette.
Bind off all 48 stitches continuously.
Break yarn, leaving enough to sew the eyes onto the body later.
Return to the first gray round you knit and pick up 56 sts counter-clockwise (looking at the right side of the eye). 
Knit four rounds (the purl bumps should face out).
Bind off.
Weave in ends.

Right-Eye Goggle:

Special instructions—make bobble: kfb, turn, p2, turn, k2tog

Switch to gray.

Knit 3 rounds.
k6, (make bobble, k5) 6 times, k6
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 1 round
k15, pm, k5, pm, k28, break yarn
With a new strand, return to the 5 stitches separated by markers and knit 5 rows in reverse stockinette.
Bind off all 48 stitches continuously.
Break yarn.
Return to the first gray round you knit and pick up 56 sts counter-clockwise (looking at the right side of the eye). 
Knit four rounds (the purl bumps should face out).
Bind off.

Weave in ends.

Sew the two eyes together.

With black yarn, pick up six stitches from bind-off edge of one of the sets of five stitches. 
Knit stockinette flat until the black can reach all around the body to the other set of five stitches. 
Slip one black st off at a time and use a crochet hook to pull it onto the other side of the gray. Slip the black stitches back onto the needle. 
Bind off the black stitches, leaving enough yarn to sew the strap on later. (This bind-off is only necessary if you wish to avoid sewing as much as possible, which is the case with me. If you don't mind sewing, just bind off the black and sew it onto the glasses.)

Stuff inside of eyes, then sew the eyes and black strap to minion’s head.

When you're done, move on to Part 4 to continue with overalls!

The pattern is for personal use only. The finished item may not be sold for profit. Please acknowledge the author. Thank you!